The Keezer Build: Pt 2

It took me long enough to finally get to writing up the second part of my keezer build. What the hell was the holdup? Well, it was a number of things, laziness, life getting in the way, spending time outside versus on the computer…take your pick. I’ve got an excuse for why it took so long.

In my last post (found here) I started off with the Keezer build and gave a general overview of how I build my keezer. I left off having finished the PVC tubing circulation system. There wasn’t a whole lot more after that. It was surprising how easy it was after that to get the keezer up and running.

Placing the Collar

Once the collar was all stained and ready to go, I slid it overtop of the keezer. While I thought I had everything aligned nicely, I noticed there was a slight gap at one of the corners where the wood interface met the top of the freezer. Even though I put some weatherstripping on the bottom of the collar for a better seal against the freezer, there was still a gap. In retrospect, I should have been a bit more careful in my alignments.

 

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Collar Fitted with Taps in Place

 

After doing a bit of reading online as to the best way to seal the collar, I got some clear silicone caulk, then lined the inside edge of the interface where the collar met the freezer top. Once it dried a couple hours later, I checked the seal with the small fan that would go on top of the reducer of the air circulation piping. The seal was great!

 

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Corners and Edges Sealed with Silicone Caulk

 

Test Fitting

I had to test fit the kegs and the CO2 tank along with the reducer to make sure everything fit. Luckily, it looked like everything was going to fit nicely. I was a little disappointed I wouldn’t be getting 4 kegs in, but I think I can do with 3.

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Even with only 2 kegs, a 3rd wasn’t going to be an issue 🙂

Insulation

Prior to adding the insulation, I mounted the manifold to the back of the collar so I could cut my insulating pieces to size.

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Manifold in place (I took this after the build was complete, realizing I’d forgotten to take the picture)

I made cut outs for the faucets along the inside of the front face. I started placing strips of aluminum tape over the corners and the top side of the collar to seal the interface between the insulation and the wood. I had thought about covering all the insulation with aluminum tape, but figured it was more effort than necessary. 99% of the time the lid is closed.

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Once I had all the cutouts for the faucet bars and the manifold in the back, I sealed the bottom each with silicone caulk to prevent any air from escaping. It seems to have worked pretty well.

Setting up Air Circulation

I initially had a few issues trying to figure out how I was going to mount the fan to the pipe reducer at the top, however, after thinking about it, I figured I would use the silicone caulk to hold it in place.

One thing I noticed with just the basic computer fan is that it didn’t move as much air as I wanted. After doing some investigation between axial fans versus centrifugal fans, I decided to purchase a centrifugal fan and mount it to the reducer instead of the axial fan. I used the silicone caulk to seal the fan and reducer interface.

There’s a lot more engineering behind selecting blower fans along with the air filtration systems, such as the draft angle of the reducer to the pump, the pressure differential in a compressor fan to move the ideal amount of air, pressure loses due to bends in the air movement system, and so on and so forth. My approach was pretty basic: take the compressor fan wires, hook them up to the correct wires on a 12 V wall wort power supply (an old phone charger) and then plug it in. So far, it works pretty well moving the cold air. Plus, it moves the cold air horizontally towards the taps versus upwards right into the lid.

 

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Centrifugal Fan Wired up and Ready to Go

 

Finishing Touches

What I noticed with the CO2 tank with the double body regulator on it is that it’s very prone to tipping. With a full CO2 tank it’s not much of an issue, but as it gets empty, it becomes a problem. My fix for this was to use a chain, 2 carabiners, and two eyelet screws. With the eyelet screws in the collar, the chain retains the CO2 tank at the neck to prevent it from tipping.

 

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A Good Retaining Solution for ~$3

Then there were the last few little things to do before I prepped my first keg. With the manifold added prior to the insulation, I mounted the temperature controller at the back of the collar behind everything, so that it looked clean from the front.

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Temperature Controller Mounted and Ready for Action.

 

The temperature controller probe was placed in a cup of water. I had read it was a more accurate way of measuring liquid temperature versus measuring the air temperature. I placed it next to the small dehumidifier in the space underneath the CO2 regulators.

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Temperature Probe and the Dehumidifier on the Compressor Hump

Then there was attaching all the hoses to the barbs and making sure all the connections were sealed. I did this by mixing some dish soap in a spray bottle and squirted at all the connections while the system was pressurized. If any bubbles showed up at the connections, I knew there was an issue.

Hooking up the System

The way I hooked up the system was I plugged the temperature controller into the wall, then plugged the power bar into the temperature controller. The power bar had the fan plugged into it, so this way the fan only turns on when the freezer is cycled on. It’s a noisy fan, so I didn’t want it running all the time.

Prepping my First Beer

Once I checked all the connections and fixed any leaks, it was time for my first beer to be kegged! I ran some beer line cleaner through the hoses a couple of times to ensure the that the hose lines were clean, then I cleaned the keg with some dish detergent. There’s better cleaners out there, but it was a brand new keg that I’d already cleaned an sanitized.

My first keg was a force carbonation test to see how well force carbonating worked.  I followed the process detailed on homebrewing.org. (Click the link to see it).

The Finished Keezer

It’s finally finished! My keezer is finished and producing lovely carbonated beers!

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Inside All set up (I only have  beer on at the moment. More to come 🙂 )

 

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The Keezer. Finished at Last.

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Producing Wonderful Draft Beer

Future Upgrades

There’s always more things I can do to tweak and improve my keezer. A few things I had thought about include the following:

  • Adding a dolly to the bottom to move the keezer around.
  • Making custom tap handles.
  • Adding a drip tray under the faucets.
  • Incorporating some nifty electronics, such as a scale or load cell to determine the amount of beer remaining in each keg.

But that’s my keezer build. If you have any questions, leave a comment!

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