Skateboard Grind Box (Part 2) – The Build

So after a lot of contemplation and reviewing plans, I finally decided to bite the bullet and tackle the grind box I continuously referenced in past posts. You don’t have to go too far to find the planning, if you really need yet another link, it’s here.

There were a few updates to the initial design I had planned. Initially, I had thought about going with a box that was going to be 2 ft wide, however I decided to shorten that to 18 inches since I wanted to use the remaining 6 ft section of 3/4″ plywood I had from the table I made. Also, I decided to only put angle iron on one side of the box instead of on both sides. I didn’t think it would be necessary to have angle iron on both sides of the box.

All in all, this probably took me about 5 hours to build. I had hoped to have a decent video showing the entire build (sped up, of course) however my GoPro was having a few fogging issues and I ran out of batteries before the end of the build. The only part I didn’t capture was clamping the angle iron to the box so that the PL Premium could cure properly.

This is more of a “how I did it” type post. I don’t have super specific photos of measurements or sizes, however if you want a more detailed article on the details of the measurements and how to build the box, check out The credit for this build goes to the folks at, it’s where I got an overall design. Note that there’s a slight difference with the box design on, however the process is pretty much the same.

As I’m sure everyone is, be safe when working with power tools, whether it’s a circular saw, a drill, or any kind of shop tool. Make sure you know how to use your tools safely and have the right protective equipment for the task. (Disclaimer)

Section 1: Materials

The materials I purchased were as follows:

Material Quantity Cuts Price
2″x 4″x 96″ Lumber 6 cut to 6 ft $   15.54
Hardboard 1 cut to 6 ft x 16″ $       9.24
Angle Iron 2″ x 1/8″ x 72″ 1 $   24.97
PL Premium 1 $       4.24
2 1/2″ Construction Screws (Box) 1 $       7.98
Total (With Tax) $   65.69

I already had a sheet of 3/4″ plywood that was 6′ x 18″. The extra tools I needed were as follows:

Other Items Quantity Price
Lithium Grease 1 $                 4.58
Ratchet Straps 1 $                 9.99
Clamps 2 $                 8.98
Sharpie 1 $                 0.97
Caulk Gun 1 $                 2.77
Total (With Tax) $               28.93

The one place I could have saved money was with the angle iron. If I’d gone to a scrap yard, I likely could have found something for less.

Tools and Materials
Tools and Materials

Section 2: Make the Cuts

I marked the cuts on each of the 2×4 sections with a sharpie. I remeasured the larger plywood section (which would be the top sheet) to determine what my smaller frame sections would need to be.

The planned material sizes after the cuts were as follows:

Item Quantity
6′ 2 x 4’s 4
15″ 2 x 4’s (base and top supports) 10
12″ 2 x 4’s (box height) 6
3/4″ plywood 6′ x 18″ 1
1/8″ Hardboard 6′ x 16″ 1

One of the things I noticed and will take note of in the future is that when you get lumber and plywood sections cut at the local home improvement store, the cuts aren’t to a high precision. When I measured the length of the plywood section that would be the top section, it turned out to be around 17 3/4″ in width. Once you’ve got the large sections cut at the hardware store, it helps to remeasure just to see what the actual dimensions are.

If you have the capacity to transport the lumber, plywood, and hardboard all in their original sizes, you can do precision cuts on your own.

Marking the Measurements
Marking the Measurements
Cuts Complete
Cuts Complete

Section 3: Start the Assembly!

Now with all the cuts made, it’s time to start putting the box together.

Another thing I noted with the 6′ 2×4’s is that the lumber was slightly warped. I clamped the center of the 6′ 2×4 to the table so that it remained relatively flat when fastening the inside support sections to the table.

Not Exactly Level
Not Exactly Level

I made markings to center the small 15″ 2×4 to the center of the 6′ 2×4. Then I fastened the 15″ 2×4’s to the ends and at the middle of the 6′ 2×4’s as shown below using 2 1/2″ construction screws

Base Complete
Base Complete

Next up was the top of the box. This was similar to the bottom, however I spaced the 15″ pieces 1′ apart from each other.

Top Section with Ladder Structure
Top Section with Ladder Structure
Almost Together
Almost Together

After the top was done, it was time to put the 12″ sections at the corners and the middle of the box to give the box its height.

Inside Base Shape
Inside Base Shape
So Close to Being Finished!
Top is attached. So Close to Being Finished!

Now it was time to attach the 3/4″ plywood sheet to the top.

Plywood Fastened to the Top
Plywood Fastened to the Top

For the last part, I fastened the 16″ sheet of hardboard to the top of the plywood using a smaller screw size. I figured using a 2 1/2″ screw to fasten a 1/8″ sheet of hardboard was probably overkill and not necessary.

When the hardboard was screwed down onto the plywood, I lined the edge that the angle iron would sit on with PL Premium. I used two clamps at the ends and four ratchet straps to secure the angle iron to the side of the box. The wood blocks on the opposite side of the angle iron are there since the hardboard hung slightly over the opposite side of the box. There would have been noticeable slots in the hardboard from the force of the ratchet straps if I didn’t use the pieces of wood as shown below.

Ratchet Straps and Clamps Attached!
Ratchet Straps and Clamps Attached!
Just need to wait for the PL Premium to Cure!
Just need to wait for the PL Premium to Cure!

The next day, I removed the clamps and the ratchet straps.



Finally, it’s ready to skate!

Aside from a few minor variations in some of the cuts of the larger pieces, the box came out as I’d initially planned.

Sketchup Version of the Box
Sketchup Version of the Box
The Finished Box
The Finished Box

At first I was worried that it wasn’t going to be sturdy enough being only 18″ wide, however I can tell you that this is one sturdy box. It’s a royal pain to move it anywhere because it’s so blinkin heavy! However, it’s been a blast to skate so far!

The only remaining thing to do now is skate the crap out of this box. Hope you liked the post!


Easy DIY Workshop Table

Finally I’ve managed to follow through on a project! Luckily, I chose to start with an easy one. I figured I needed a decent workbench for my garage if I was going to be doing a few DIY projects here and there. I had originally planned on building a table similar to this one, however I figured I’d wait on the full on work bench and go with an even simpler table. I built a folding table made out of a 6′ x 30″ x 3/4″ plywood sheet and a set of folding table legs.

Now depending on what you want to do, you could easily just get an already built folding table and be done with it, however I’m trying to build things and this project is pretty easy. If I can complete this, pretty much anyone can. It gives the satisfaction of actually building something with your own two hands.

The materials cost me about $50 (it was $55.57, though it can probably be done for a bit cheaper since I bought a full 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood). I got everything at the Home Depot, but these parts can be found just about local hardware store or home improvement store.


Item Cost
4′ x 8′ x 3/4″ plywood $   25.08
Folding Table Legs $   24.98
1/2″ screws $      2.36
Total (with taxes) $   55.57

The reason for purchasing a 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood is that I determined I could use part of the sheet for my grind box. This is the next project on my list. I figured out after I didn’t need the screws since the folding table legs kit came with a set of screws.

I was able to finish the table easily in about an hour ( I had a few issues with drilling some holes…). If you take your time and don’t rush drilling the holes, this table can be made fairly quickly.

Step 1: Cut the Plywood to Size

Sectioned Plywood and Folding Table Leg Kit.
Sectioned Plywood and Folding Table Leg Kit.

Here you can see how the plywood sheet was cut. I had is cut to a 6′ length and then rip cut at 2 1/2′. This left a sheet of 6′ x 2 1/2′ for the table. The grind box will then have a top sheet of 6′ x 1 1/2′. I had originally planned for a 21″ wide skateboard box, however 18″ wide should be fine.

You can cut the size of the table any size you want. The above dimensions worked for me, plus the sheets fit into my car after they were cut.

Step 2: Assemble the Legs and Mark the Mounting Plate Locations

Positioning the folded legs.
Positioning the folded legs.

The folding legs required a little bit of assembly. This was really only a couple of bolts, lock washers, and nuts to mate the top and the bottom part of the legs together. The kit came with instructions which are pretty easy to follow. I measured the location of where the legs would fasten onto the plywood, making sure that the legs were centered and that there wasn’t any overlap between the legs when in the folded position.

Step 3: Attach the Legs to the Plywood

One Leg Complete!
One Leg Complete!

All that was required here was inserting a few screws at each mounting plate on the legs. Despite my best intentions, I had placed the folding leg upside down the first time. This prevented the angle support from fully locking into position when extended upright. I had a to re-drill a couple of holes because of this mistake…oh well, we all make mistakes. (I’m blaming it on sleep deprivation)

Step 4: Admire Your New Table

It's Finally Done!
It’s Finally Done!
That's a nice looking table.
That’s a nice looking table.

When you look at this project, all it really is is a couple of screws to attach some folding legs to a sheet of plywood. This makes a great multipurpose table that can be used for anything. It can be folded up and stored or moved around easily. Also, if I spill paint on the plywood, or the top gets a few holes drilled into it, it doesn’t really matter. I can replace the sheet if it gets really bad, but it’s supposed to get dirty. It’s for use in the garage, that’s why I built it.

So there you have it! All in all, it’s a very simple table to put together if you need something basic that can be folded up and stored if necessary.